“rad! i said it was RAD! R-A-D …”
November 17, 2009 – 2:21 am
pre-mayhem, the crowd at charlotte’s southeast regional barista jam and latte art bash looks quite docile. haha!
here’s what it’s like walking into jason dominy‘s lair, an urban charlotte warehouse space not technically owned by jason dominy, but, you know, “owned” by jason dominy. at least, that’s what his raucous, all-night tenure at the microphone seemed to indicate.
shrouds of black denote the cool space. light ropes = party time! people clink their wine glasses around and sip and “sonicetoseeeeeyou!” for now, but OH THE MAYHEM of which they are capable. the DJ — surfer, magazine cover boy and former southeast barista champion lem butler, once dubbed “sexyfoam” by a cast of puppets — is clearly a favored part of the arrangement. he is in the action, as central as the pallet of cake, and the beats go shunk-a-junk and loudness happens almost before the place is fully populated.
“daddee,” the blogson says, all fixated on the moat of candy-capped cupcakes, “can i have one?” but in the din it’s all vowels, no consonants: ” ‘an i ‘ave uh?” “sure,” we scream, certain he couldn’t have meant a longneck, and then, oh, hey, a person we know! and another one! wow, let’s have a red-faced convo in which we laugh and shout and then shout the same thing again! and isn’t it funny that it looks like your tongue is in my ear! and oh, ow, i was trying to get my point across, not really butt your head! ha! wha?
these sorts of parties are great. maximum thoughts communicated in the briefest of primal screams. “rad!” someone says. “yup!”
that there was serious dilworth money plowed into the catered spread, no question. that a far-flung crowd from indiana to florida had made a substantial trek for a weekend of happy southeastery, absolutely. that the concept of a latte art throwdown, eye-rolled by some, was totally novel and awesomely radulous to much of the crowd, yeah. that this blog, being petrified in fear of the raging, all-or-nothing aurelia steam wands, was inevitably the first to be called upon to demonstrate these milky arts to the masses, of course it was!
“allllllll the way from greenville, south carolina,” the voice bellows, all mad-lib and no subtlety, “it’s the blogfamily mafia!” a phrase of indeterminate meaning, but oh, dominy was just getting started. as one listened to his full-throated commandeering, one almost felt compelled to gasp for air on his behalf. such a vent of exuberant, hysterical hyperbole, that dominy. in his verbal arts, atlanta’s octane coffee became “THE premier cafe in the entire southeast.” a possibility, yes, but maybe we could argue about it first? ben helfen was “the man i want to marry” or something equally stunning, and the crowd — the entire crowd, congealed as a single personality — was dubbed the “second most important person to me, after my wife.” whew, gasp. a party full of best men! the PARTY is your best man!
this colossal optimism, this overwhelming exuberance, of course, was a huge hit and an endearing thing for those present and, in the end, a sort of mascot for charlotte and southeastern coffee. lots of love and glee, very little of that west coast cynicism or angst.
turns out the latte art bash went something like three hours long, and this blog had told the son, “don’t worry! we’ll leave as soon as i lose!” hehe, yes. which ended up being in the final round, when we finally choked on a simple heart-topped rosetta and handed the entire 30-person competition to a very deserving chandler rentz of atlanta’s aurora coffee. by then the blogson was asleep on a table next to a longneck, and we had foolishly allowed ourselves to muse about that grand prize baratza vario grinder.
sigh. a reliably underwhelming bridesmaid, that’s what this blog is. always game to make a stab at it, never a real threat to take the prize.
not that second-place prizery wasn’t quite a haul. tamper, syphon, pitcher, scale, coffee, pallo tool, magazine. shamyeah. and to think, this blog hadn’t really used full-blast commercial steam before, always coaxed those big twisty steam wands to a relatively tame speed. the aurelia, with its snap-on steam lever, robbed us of all that comfort. which, hey, is like a prerequisite for artistic expression, no?
we left as dominy was, uh, chest-bumping(?) lem and making his way to the espresso machines. and hey, was that a bon jovi-m.i.a. mix that just left us newly deaf?
unlike last year, when this blog’s reaction was sort of bewildered bemusement, the result here was quite a head ringing. quite an expression of the coffee vibe in this part of the country. quite a night.
i SAID, “quite a night! quite an expression of the …!”

those coffee and crema boys check out the latte art wares. “is this how you shake it, yo?”

I just want to say I wholeheartedly agree with this assessment. A night of epic proportions, only bested by my love for this coffee community. I know I had about 15 people that came that had never seen or known about any of this kinda stuff, and this event was a peephole into this world that I post about on such a frequent basis. It explained to them my fanatical passion about said community, and why it’s so important to me. A room full of people all appreciating the art of making espresso the right way, and presenting it in a form that says “this cannot be bought with a side of fries.”
The fact that by the end of the night, I saw one of the new owner’s brothers learning latte art from “the sexiest beard in the room” (as I said it Saturday night), Mr. Daniel Thompson from Athens, was indeed something I thought was cool. That my friends from church were asking baristas questions on how they steam the milk like that, and the older crowd just amazed no toothpicks were used to create said art, made the throwdown worthwhile. It’s the gateway drug into higher quality espresso drinks, I’ve said it before. It’s not the end-all-be-all, but a good way to get baristas jazzed about making better drinks, and a consumer base excited about what coffee can be.
My voice is still gone, my feet still ache, but my heart is proud of what I saw Saturday night till 2 in the morning. Real community. A real, living, breathing thing in a celebration of community and a love for the craft. And the new owners of Dilworth Coffee were initiated into this brave, new world for them, a world of amazement and wonder, and passionate world of coffee that extends much further than the shops here in Charlotte, or the US for that matter.
P.S. Second place ain’t half bad out of 30 of the best latte artists in the SE, including Mr. Helfen, Nashville’s Nathaniel Mehrens, and Charlotte’s undefeated winner Michael Feemster. Heck, even multi-event winner and your homeboy Shannon Hudgens. Yep, wasn’t half bad for someone who doesn’t work in a shop, training center or roastery, but dwells in his professional life in the world of cubicle. Good work bz. I got nothing but love for you, and your “blogfamily mafia.”
P.S. I don’t think this event was too shabby for a new start for the view of Dilworth Coffee. Much respect has to go out to the new owners who spared no expense to see what all the fuss was about.
a joke in the house, jason, was that if a latte artist wasn’t introduced as a “legend” or as the “second or third most important person in my life,” then he should be offended. because compared to what you were saying about everyone else, being called a “great guy,” for example, would be like being told you’re the scum of the earth.
good times.
Who from Florida made it up? And in the spirit of friendly competition, I know of at least one shop that is willing to put their espresso and brewed coffee against any shop identified as the premiere in the southeast. Just don’t expect fancy latte art. Perhaps in the future we can have a ‘screw the art, give me your best tasting drink’ throwdown.
yeah bz, that’s funny. I don’t know why I said half of what I said. But, it’s too late now.
true, Octane has it’s reputation for a reason, even if they won’t say it. Volta? Excellent, and Anthony has done an amazing job, and has one of the best shops in the country. His focus on not just quality coffee, espresso, baristas, but food, as well, makes him stand out. Coffee and Crema in Greenville? Shannon has made an oasis in a coffee desert. He’s created something special twice, for sure, one of my favorite shops. CREMA in Nashville? All my friends that go there rave over it. I love the original Dilworth Coffee here in Charlotte. Excellent espresso, pulled in all naked portafilters, art and all, and 20 years old now.
But, I imagine that those shops would agree with me that in terms of what they do, the quality of what they put out, their baristas, training, and environment, Octane comes out on top in the SE, and is a great model for all shops in some way or another. And again, I got nothing but respect for Anthony, Shannon, Rachel, and all of the other amazing shops in the SE that are countless, I’m just giving my two cents, which these days ain’t worth squat.
If you were there it was all about the spirit of the south east in the coffee world, everything that had happened was perfect for the occasion. People were in classes all day long focusing hard on everything that they should know to make quality espresso. Then a Latte Art Throw down at the end of the night. It was pure awesomeness. Just able to kick back and relax and also learn how to make your drink more appealing to the eye? It was an incredible idea. I was introduced as a name and not a legend. Which I felt was suiting for no one in the room had heard of me prior to the weekend. (And it is better to surprise people with no idea of your reputation.) Whenever they introduce a boxer who had won some award in his life they always list his awards first. With how many people that were named “legends” I think it just shows how much talent there is in the southeast and how active they are in the coffee community. It was an amazing time. And thank you so much Jason for all your hard work that you put into this weekend. I look forward to participating in all future events that Dilworth Coffee will hold.
Well, I should have clicked on the blue “true” to see who it was, before I posted, although I wouldn’t have changed what I said. Again, Anthony, I mean absolutely NO disrespect to you, what you’ve done, or anyone else for that matter, it’s just my opinion. What Octane has done for the Atlanta area is amazing. The fact that I went into Octane-Emory a few weeks ago and watched as person after person ordered their coffee, and patiently waited with no complaints as their coffee was made via Chemex, said so much about what they’ve done. I hope to get down to the Sunshine state sometime soon, and see just how awesome your shop is, honestly, I’m just giving my opinion, again.
damn– really disappointed I couldn’t make it up there for this. looks like it was a lot of fun. i’m really excited about how coffee is progressing here in the SE. Octane, Volta, C&C, and Crema are all making great coffee– I don’t know that I would be able to pick a favorite.
Hope more events like this happen soon.
to be clear, it was fairly obvious to me that the “best in the southeast” reference was merely a part of an evening full of exuberant hyperbole.
i’m not sure who made it up from florida, true. that’s what i was told. jason?
loving the idea of a beverage Throwdown of Taste and Gravitas, brought to you by volta.
the comments here are really pretty reflective of the vibe of the event, i think. there’s a real earnestness, a simple eagerness and joy to be a part of the quality movement i’m hearing. nothing fancy, nothing remotely conceited or self-conscious like you get in the high-profile coffee towns. just pure excitement. it’s kind of fun to watch.
spirit: do you care to ID yourself? did we pour against each other? where do you hail from?
Glad to hear that the event was a success, but it also points out the problem with the regional designations. Charlotte is about the same distance from Gainesville FL as it is to Philadelphia. The distances are just too much to generate any sense of cohesion. Just like it probably doesn’t make any sense for the SERBC to be held in Florida, I can’t see the general coffee community in the SE making its way to Volta for a head-to-head espresso competition. At first I was bummed out about that realization, but now I’m satisfied that it’s forced me to think of our own shop as hyper-local. We’ve found a niche in our community that is extremely receptive to espresso and seasonal, by-the-cup brewing. We have many, many customers who could easily serve as sensory judges in a regional barista competition– and that’s something that I find tremendously rewarding.
bz– we just had our own espressofest last month. It was a big success: 11 single origin and blend espressos in 5 days from 6 roasters. People had a chance to try more types of higher quality espresso in a few days than were available on the 4th machine at the WBC. Of the 75lbs of espresso that we went through, about a quarter was served in 12oz lattes, the rest in straight espresso or 5oz capps. I tried to get various people from the coffee community to come down, but I’m resigned to the fact that folks are not going to drive down from Atlanta, let alone NC/SC, “just” for espresso.
Anthony, I agree, it is a tough region because of it’s sheer size. Currently, the region is classified by the Barista Guild as “KY, TN, MS, AL, WV, VA, NC, SC, GA, FL.” I find it odd that VA is classified as the SE, but, eh, whatever. Anyway, as you can see it is a lot of ground to cover. But, with that being said, I would love to see something like this happen in FL, and you could totally make it happen. I am sure I would assist in putting it together for the BGA.
What is a head-to-head espresso competition. Is it roaster vs. roaster? Or barista vs. barista using the same espresso? It sounds interesting. Anyway, there are some things to look at here as far as regional designations, but again, who wouldn’t classify both NC and FL as the Southeast? I’ve always considered the SE as FL, GA, AL, TN, KY, NC, SC. And yes, it is hard to get everyone together. Heck, I haven’t seen my mom in probably 7 years, because she lives in Panama City, which take a good two days to drive to for me.
Anyway, I digress, a problem of hydrocodone and sudafed for this whatever this thing I have is… You bring up a valid point, I just don’t know there’s an easy solution. I want to see more FL peeps involved. The guy that came from Jacksonville says he wants to be involved. I know you’d like to be involved. Question is, how do we make it happen. And how to we get more people north of the Sunshine state involved in what’s going on down there. Again, good thoughts.
Jason, sorry if I sound cranky about all of this stuff, but I’m thinking a lot about competitions and events at the moment– and the more I see the emphasis at the regional level on throwdown-style art competitions, the more I wonder what exactly it is supposed to do for the community beyond a feels-good-to-hang-out-and-have-fun level. Yeah, that’s great and needed; I’m not so much of a curmudgeon that I don’t see the point. But on a very basic level it makes about as much sense to me as a BBQ cookoff where you are only judged on how symmetrical your grill marks are on your brisket and never on how it tastes.
More specifically, I’m thinking about people here at the shop who are considering the SERBC. Why are there no throwdowns that follow the espresso/cap section of the USBC rules? Or, as a free-form unsanctioned event, improve upon the rules/presentation with an eye towards improving the USBC from the ground-up. It’s crazy that there are _no_ events out there at any level (that I know of) that include sensory evaluation of any sort outside of the official regional/national USBC events. It’s crazy that people only get one chance (or two, if they place) to run through a competition performance with real evaluation in a year. Think how much better the competitors would be at the SERBC if we had an ad-hoc bracket system of throwdown-style espresso and cap events…
I am a Coffee Equipment Service Tech in NC. I only poured once at the event. My name is Dominic.
true: definitely getting your thoughts. obviously, similar frustrations/ideas have bubbled up here over the past few years. i’m convinced we can do even better than to just look toward barista competition standards. and i’m somewhat amazed that latte art competitions have remained popular for as long as they have. however, given then number of newbies at the jam this past weekend it’s appeal was a no-brainer.
a year or so ago, i had seriously begin to lay the groundwork for a hyperlocal event here that would essentially try to capture the range we’re talking about here — from light, eye-pleasing fare to serious beverage prep. multiple points of entry that would both engage the public and provide real competition/quality review for those in the business. it would have been unsanctioned so that we could disregard or improve upon some of the odd/pointless rules of the usbc, and included cuppings, mini lectures, coffee head-to-head, latte art, free beverages, all in a public space (the mall).
alas, my fatigue issues got in the way. but now you’ve got my gears cranking again. to focus on the hyperlocal community instead of the broader one would provide an opportunity to really drill down, it seems to me.
and, although it is quite a drive, i think i’d actually drive to gainesville for such a thing if it was on the right weekend. i know you told me about your recent espressofest in atlanta, but reading the above post the concept sort of “clicked.” i’d love to explore/document refreshingly new approaches, and i’d probably travel to do it.
none of this is to say there’s anything deficient with what happened in charlotte last weekend. i was prevented from attending most of it, but it clearly served a vital purpose for people centered there. whatever it is that kindles in people renewed excitement for quality, it was present. a lot of exposure for new folks too. the throwdown was just frosting.
Tony, my friend, you’re sounding a bit cranky indeed. Comparing it to grill marks? C’mon dude.
Throwdowns are fun. They’re energetic. They’re challenging to do well at. They’re (generally) low-effort (espresso bar + baristas, and you can have a throwdown). That’s the point, no more.
Why are there no ‘sensory evaluation’ events? Why aren’t there espresso-and-capp throwdowns? Well, why weren’t there any badass coffeebars in Gainesville, FL until just a couple years ago?
Never said it was easy to get perfect grill marks…
I like this picture, which is from the opposite side of the picture you took, and actually shows you taking the picture above:
http://gallery.me.com/jasonandapril#100458/Dilworth_throwdown-90
Great blog. Very entertaining read. Comments section, too. Look fwd to reading future posts.
Dominy does have a big heart and a personality to match it- funny to hear how it was displayed at this event. I wish I could have been there.
I really empathize with the attitude of the blogger and a lot of the comments made in response.
I agree that throwdowns are fun and really easy to put on. I also agree they’re kind of hokey.
They are also a great way to bring people with this similar interest together- always fun to geek out. It is a community building tool to be certain. However, so are these blogs.
The fact that we have a constant opportunity to communicate and share ideas with each other- especially ideas we disagree on- is of vital importance to this community. It’s something I relish!
I disagree, however, that throwdowns are of little to no value concerning drink quality. Sure, a beautiful capp may not be the best tasting. However, I think that the more beautiful one is, the better the chances are it will taste great. Moreover, the focus of contestants outside game-play is usually one on quality and constant betterment.
My two cents.